Let It Rain!

Whether you call it an umbrella, parasol, gamp, Hanway or brolly, if you live in certain parts of Canada, you will need one every ten minutes (or so it seems!). The rainfall this season has been heavy and contributing to the lacking feeling of summer. So in honor of our very wet summer, here is a little history on the umbrella.

Did you know the umbrella is over 4000 years old? Originally designed to provide shade (from the Latin root word "umbra", meaning shade or shadow), it was first thought to have been used against rain in China where the paper parasols were waxed and lacquered.

In the 16th century, within the rainy weather of northern Europe the umbrella became more popular - but mostly for women as an accessory.

Jonas Hanway (1712-86), a traveller and writer, carried and used an umbrella publicly in England for thirty years, popularizing the umbrella for use among men. English gentleman still often refer to their umbrellas as a "Hanway."

The first all umbrella shop was called "James Smith and Sons" and opened in 1830 in London, England. Umbrellas were originally made of wood or whalebone and covered with alpaca or oiled canvas. The curved handles for the umbrellas were often carved out of hard woods like ebony.

Vintage umbrellas and paraphernalia now available:

Vintage Salt & Pepper Shakers

Vintage Umbrella Stand

On The Bias

The Bias cut. One of the most important elements of 1930's fashion developed by Madeleine Vionnet, a French Couturier. In 1927 she discovered that if you turned fabric vertically so that the warp and weft threads are both on the diagonal it created a natural elasticity. This allowed the fabric to cling to the contours of the body and gave dresses a sleek and elegant look - what we often refer to as Grecian-style gowns. During her career, Ms. Vionnet dressed style icons such as Greta Garbo and popularized the cowl- and halter-neck styles.

Greta Garbo

Having retired in 1939, one can usually find Vionnet in museums - attesting to her genius. Which means it is generally out of reach for most of us.

Unless you head to Barney's in New York where they have decided to relaunch a Vionnet line. A tricky concept since she has been out of the mainstream for such a long time, Barney's runs the risk of shoppers not knowing who she is.

The line will feature drapey silk evening gowns, pants, blouses and coats that retail from $1,800 to $14,400 and sales associates who have been trained to discuss the label's history. So even if you are not buying, you can get a little history lesson!

The Porkpie Salon Part II

So when did the hat disappear from daily gentleman's attire? There are many reasons -some economic, some social, but president John F. Kennedy was blamed for the abrupt decline in the sales of men's hats when he didn't wear one during his inauguration in 1961.

The same rule for wearing white applies to wearing hats. Felt hats are worn after Labor Day until May 30 and straw or light fabric hats are worn between the two dates for the summer.

Vintage hats now available on ebay:

Porkpie Hat

1920s Boater Hat

Wool Tweed Fedora

Mallory Hat

The Porkpie Salon Part I

At one time, men wore hats everywhere - from work to the baseball park to church on Sunday, a man never went without one. There is something about a man in a suit and hat that is dignified, important, commands respect and perhaps is dashing and debonair.

And I don't mean a baseball cap put on backwards.

Wouldn't it be great if hats made a comeback? Hats like the Fedora, the Porkpie, the Bota, the Derby, the Borsalino.

Gone are the days when a gentleman wearing a hat used to remove it in a ladies presence or tip the brim out of respect. A class act who is confident and comfortable - and class does not mean someone has to be affluent, just polite. The wearing of hats symbolized a cultural and civil atmosphere.

Today there is little maturity reflected in young men's clothing. We see bandanas, doo-rags and baseball caps on backwards with pants sagging - a sign that young men have lost respect for themselves and for women.

Gathering of men - every single one wearing a hat

G.A. Dunn & Co. Trilby Hat, early 1900s

Old Eatons Catalogue Ad

Biltmore Pinched Fedora, c. 1940s

Internet Weary

A recent article out of Melbourne, Australia has revealed a recent study of young adult culture wanting to return to a simpler time.

The age group of 16-30 year olds, has apparently had enough of partying and playing on the internet. The youth marketing agency Lifelounge surveyed 1600 young adults and found that they would rather stay home and listen to their parent's old vinyl records and wear vintage clothing!

Well, I can't say I blame them. Nostalgia & simplicity are influencing everything from purchasing power to entertainment choices, but I strongly believe it is not just the youth culture - whenever there is a rough spot in the road, we all wish for simpler times. There is nothing wrong with technology, but don't you find it can be overwhelming at times?

Let's reflect on simpler times:

Gentleman's Lounging Robe

Boyd's of St. Louis, Black Wool Split Tails, c. 1950s

Susan Evans Plaid Cotton Swing Dress, C. 1950s

Jerry Marsch For Mardi Gras Yellow Chiffon, C. 1960s

Clothes-Horse

Have you ever counted how many pieces of clothing you have? Do you often say to yourself you have a closetful of clothes but nothing to wear?

I do. And then I go and buy more. I am a clothes horse - an old term which actually refers to a clothes drying rack but now often humorously refers to someone excessively interested in clothes.

However, until the 1960s you might be surprised by how little people had. Most women would have three to five dresses, and then they might have, if they were a bit avant-garde, a pair of pants. They might have two pairs of shoes. By modern standards this is unheard of.

Also, all women sewed. They did not head down to the mall to pick up a new dress. It was either made by herself or her dressmaker, along with her entire family's wardrobe.

Times change. By the 1960s and the rise of ready-to-wear, sewing became unfashionable. I certainly appreciate being able to have a large wardrobe and purchase items quickly without waiting several weeks for something to be sewn with fittings in-between. Let's face it, life is just too busy to sew an outfit. But every once in awhile I have the urge to sit at the sewing machine and create something I know I would be proud of. Sewing takes patience...and if you have the time and patience, what a sense of accomplishment it would be!

Some patterns I found on ebay for inspiration:

My Vintage Vogue

The next best thing to looking at a fabulous vintage garment, is looking at stunning vintage photographs. My other love of beautiful photography and images has been captured over at http://www.myvintagevogue.com/. Jessica has been collecting images since a very young age, and what an eye she has. These images are stunning and conveniently categorized by decade. A beautiful section of movie star style and one devoted entirely to Audrey Hepburn. I suggest you hop on over there to have a look.

Here is a small sample to drool over!

"Stars with Style"

1950s

1940s

1930s

1920s